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Removing Cylinder Head

Tools Needed:  17mm, 13mm and possibly a 12mm wrench

Before beginning place a suitable container under the head to catch any oil that will spill out.  Using the kick starter set the engine to TDC using the arrow in the view port. Using the 12mm or 13mm wrench, loosen and remove the valve cover retaining nut and washer.

If needed, the valve cover gasket can be removed. It is designed to be re-useable and should be marked so it can be re-installed in its original position to lessen oil seepage.


Using the 17mm wrench, loosen the cylinder head stud nuts using a "cross" pattern.

I also back off the valve adjustment lock nut and adjustment screw in preparation for re-assembly.

Once the stud nuts are loose, remove on set of nuts at a time along with the rocker arm assembly. Careful not to let the pushrod drop out on the floor.

The middle finger is pointing to the valve adjusting screw and lock nut while the index finger is pointing to the set screw for the rocker arm shaft.

With the rocker arm assembly removed you can now see the push rod to the right of the cylinder stud and valve spring and keeper plate to the left.

Remove push rod and note which end goes up to the Tappet and to which valve (intake or exhaust) the push rod belongs.

750cc push rods are aluminum with pressed on hardened tips. Inspect tips for looseness and replace if needed.

Store the push rods in some fashion that allows you to replace them in their original position.

The cylinder head is now ready to be removed.

Grasp each side of the cylinder head and pull it off the cylinder studs. The cylinder head gasket will be stuck either to the back of the head or the face of the cylinder. It too is re-useable but I suggest replacing it.

This is the view of the back side of the cylinder head which was just pulled. The exhaust valve is on the left and the intake valve on the right.

A closer look, you can see the spark plug at 12 o'clock and along the bottom right corner you can see the oil return hole to the sump.

After removing the cylinder head you are now left looking at the cylinder. The top of the piston is plugging up the whole.




Installing Cylinder Head

Tools Needed: 17mm, 13mm, 12mm and 10mm wrench and a torque wrench if you are anal.

Place cylinder head gasket on studs and slide it home against the cylinder.

Make sure you have the gasket on correctly so the oil return hole is not covered.

Slide the cylinder head on to the studs.

As a safety measure, I put a cylinder stud nut or two on so the head doesn't slide off onto the floor.

Have your push rods ready.

Re-insert the push rod into its original position.

Slide the appropriate rocker arm assembly in place.

Position the rocker arm so it is centered over the end of the valve stem.

Snug the two 17mm cylinder stud nuts down and again check the alignment of the rocker arm to valve stem. If you didn't back off the valve adjustment screw during disassembly, you may need to now to prevent binding.

View from above with both rocker arms installed.

Front view with both rocker arms installed. At this point the cylinder stud nuts are just snugged up.

Close-up view showing valve adjustment screw and lock nut backed off.

Tighten the cylinder stud nuts up using a "cross" pattern like so...1...



and 4. The torque wrench can be used here at a setting of 42 to 45 ft/lbs. I suggest the lower of the two so you have less chance of stripping the studs.

Triple check the alignment of the rocker arm to valve stem...

...replace the valve cover gasket in its original position.

Ready for the valve cover.

Cover goes on along with the washer and retaining nut...

...tighten until snug then a 1/4 turn and you are ready to move on.

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