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Removing the Crankshaft Timing Gear

Tools Needed:  Tommy bar, hammer, large screw driver, 22-19mm socket, 12mm socket, extension, ratchet and 3 arm puller

Front view of engine and crank gear.

Use Tommy bar and hammer to bend crank washer down...

...like so.

Insert a large screw driver between the teeth of the flywheel and case...

...to keep the flywheel/crank from turning when pulling the crank gear.

Use the 12mm socket, extension and ratchet to remove the gear retaining bolt.

Crank bolt, tab washer and washer plate. Note the plate has a cut-out for the key which holds the gear.

Front view of crank gear with key at 7 o'clock.

Carefully place a puller over the gear, use the 22-19mm socket for the puller bolt to push against...

...I prefer a 3 arm puller as there is less chance of damage during gear removal.

Side view just before gear is pulled free.

Gear off.

View of puller fingers on gear.



Installing the Crankshaft Timing Gear

Tools Needed: Hammer, 22 X 19 mm open end wrench, block of wood, 12 mm socket and ratchet wrench, wood chisel and tommy bar.


Align the key and key way on the crank gear with the key way on the crankshaft.

The crank gear should press fit enough to stay on...

...then use a block of wood and hammer to beat the gear onto the crank. Take care to not cock the gear on the crank or you will bugger both up.

The washer has a hole in it for the locking tooth on the lock washer of the crankshaft gear bolt...

...make sure they get lined up properly.

Make sure the cut-out for the crankshaft key on the back of the crank bolt washer is aligned with the key.

Block the flywheel from moving by placing a 22 X 19 mm wrench in the lighting hole of the flywheel and over the boss for the engine mounting stud.


Use the 12 mm socket and ratchet to tighten up the bolt...


...then use the block of wood and hammer to beat the gear on a bit more. Alternate snugging up the bolt and tapping the gear home with the block of wood and hammer until the gear is seated. You may find it helpful to place the engine against something stationary like a door frame to make seating the gear with the hammer easier.


The crank gear should visibly move and the bolt should tighten up with minimal effort. If you attempt to force the gear onto the crank by using excessive force you will strip the crank threads and/or break the bolt. If the crank gear does not go on easy, use a brake cylinder hone on the i.d. hole of the gear to open it up .001 or so.

Once the gear is seating against the crankshaft...

Use the wood chisel and tommy bar to bend up the lock washer against a flat on the bolt head.



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